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The quest for the ultimate moisturizer has led to many products with claims based on one or two trendy ingredients – (hello, hyaluronic acid). But ultimately, these products don't seem to live up to the hype, especially on their own. That's because a moisturizer is so much more than just hydration. Using the proper moisturizer daily acts as a barrier, helping to ensure that the skin does not lose the moisture it needs to function. The skin serves as a protective barrier of the body and holds two forms of moisture - water (hydration) and oil (moisture). Both are needed for healthy skin function. So with so many moisturizers on the market, and so many claims of miracle ingredients, how do you know which one is right for you? I'll walk you through everything you need to know about choosing the perfect moisturizer formula for your skin! the why While the name may seem self-explanatory (a moisturizer is used to moisturize), the purpose of a moisturizer is much more than that. Rather than simply adding moisture to the skin, we aim to replicate our skin's barrier by applying a moisturizer. Our skin's barrier protects us from harmful agents entering the body. Investing in a moisturizer prevents damage and leaves you with healthy, happy skin. There's a difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin:
Understanding the difference is important because dehydrated skin can often present as oily skin. The skin cannot replenish its hydration, so the oil glands become overly active. Often, those experiencing this can perpetuate dehydration levels by trying to "dry out" the oil in the skin that's being overproduced. This is why even oily skin or acne-prone needs a moisturizer. This leads me to the next most frequent misconception client's have about using a moisturizer - I have oily skin. Do I still need a moisturizer? In most cases - YES. When the skin produces too much sebum (oil), it is usually overcompensating for an imbalance. Neglecting to use moisturizer can make oily or problem skin worse. On the other hand, those with dry skin may find that you drink tons of water, but your skin still feels tight and dry. Remember, the skin needs water (hydration) and oil (moisture). Drinking water alone will not help. Dry skin lacks oil, so you must use a moisturizer with oils that mimic the skin. the whenMoisturizer should be applied after cleansing and before you apply sunscreen. If using actives or serums, following the "lightest to heaviest" rule of thumb can be helpful. Water-loving humectants (such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and amino acids) should be applied first. These draw in and hold onto water molecules. If you are using one of these, apply the serum - or "lighter" - formulations after cleansing and before your moisturizer. what to look forHow to Choose a Moisturizer When choosing a moisturizer, be sure it includes these main components:
Oils that mimic the skin barrier There are three types of oils that fall into this category. They are ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Ceramides provide a physical barrier by sealing moisture into the skin while preventing water loss. Cholesterol + Fatty Acids mimic the components of the skin. INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR:
Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives In addition to the skin skin-loving oils listed above, your moisturizer should contain water-attracting humectants (hydration), and skin smoothing emollients. Water-attracting humectants draw in and hold onto water molecules. INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR:
Emollients are substances that help smooth the skin by "filling in the cracks" between the skin cells in the outer layer of the skin. They keep the skin barrier smooth and intact. Some examples of emollients are esters, fatty acids, and ceramides. Occlusives are substances that can create a physical, water-repelling barrier on top of the skin, preventing water loss and blocking outside aggressors from penetrating the skin barrier. These tend to be thicker and best for dry or sensitive skin types. They contain oily, or waxy substances such as carnauba wax, petrolatums, lanolin, mineral oils, squalane, other vegetable oils, silicones, and more. Putting it all togetherLike I stated earlier, most formulations state which skin type they are for. However, while that's a great starting point, it shouldn't be the deciding factor. You should always consider your skin type and all of the other factors that go into creating your skin statement. If you haven't created your skin statement yet, you can do so here. Equipped with your skin statement, you can follow this general guide of what to look for when choosing a moisturizer. Oily/Acne-Prone: A moisturizer with hydration that includes humectants and ceramides. Look for products that are specifically formulated for oily or acne-prone skin. Stay away from occlusive formulas. Dry/Sensitive: Reach for a moisturizer with cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides. Using humectants alone will not be enough hydration. The hydration from the humectants must be paired with oils and/or sealed in with an emollient or occlusive formula. Normal and Combination: Chooses humectants, ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol for optimal skin health. For you, preference and season/climate will be a big part of choosing the right moisturizer. Live in a dry climate with low humidity? More emollient or occlusive formulas will be beneficial. In contrast, those that prefer a lighter moisturizer or live in a more humid climate may opt for a humectant and emollient. Remember, skincare is not one size fits all. Want help figuring out what will work for you? An esthetician can work with you to create a truly customized routine. coming up nextWe're well on our way to establishing an excellent skincare routine! So far, we've covered moisturizers, cleansing, sunscreen, AND defined our skin type and preferences! (If you haven't already filled out your skin statement, click here to check out my blog post where I walk you through putting it together.) Next up in this series- Vitamin A and Vitamin C - two powerful ingredients that you will want to consider adding to your skincare routine!
Has this deep dive into how to choose a moisturizer been helpful? Drop me a comment below and let me know! Comments are closed.
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