SKIN FOUNDATIONS: PREPARE AND PROTECT

Skin Foundations: Prepare and Protect

1/14/2022

How to Choose the right Cleanser and SPF for your Skin

In my last blog, I wrote about when choosing the right products for your skin, you have to get to know your skin by identifying your skin type, skin condition, and preferences. If you haven't done it yet - check out the blog and fill in your skin statement.

Now let's get down to the basics - Prepare and Protect!

How do you prepare and protect? Cleansing and SPF. They are the two foundational staples in every skincare routine. Think of them as the bookends of your daily skincare regimen.

Today I want to share my guide on how to prepare and protect your skin. We will cover:

Why these steps are so crucial
When to cleanse and apply SPF
What to look for when choosing a cleanser and sunscreen

The why

Cleansers are a critical first step in a daily skincare routine. You never want to apply your treatment products (serums and moisturizers) to skin that is not clean and prepared. Not correctly completing this step can damage the skin. When your skin is damaged before you even apply treatment products, your skin is starting at a disadvantage. The only way to reach your skincare goals is to start with a strong foundation - a cleanser that won't damage the skin.

Sunscreen should be the last step in your morning skincare routine and applied EVERY SINGLE DAY. 80% of aging comes from the sun. No matter what skin type or concerns you have, skipping out on sunscreen will harm your skin and put you at risk for certain types of skin cancers. Sunscreen not only protects the health of your skin but your investment in products and treatments as well. Without using a protective-broad-spectrum SPF, you will not achieve your desired results and will always start back at square one.

The when

Let's star with the first step, Cleansing.

Generally, it would be best if you cleaned your face twice daily, especially at night, to remove makeup and the day's impurities. A double cleanse is a must if you wear makeup - once to remove your makeup and the second to cleanse your skin! Some prefer to use a creamy or oil cleanser first to remove makeup - including eye makeup - then perform a second cleanse with a different cleanser. Remember to rinse with warm water and pat dry with a clean towel. One thing for sure is to avoid using washcloths or sponges to scrub and rub on your face as you cleanse. They can tear the skin barrier, which results in inflammation. Instead, use clean hands with a few pumps of your favorite cleanser and pat dry.

AM Cleanse vs PM Cleanse, what's the difference?

AM: There is much debate on an AM cleanse. It really is more personal preference and what your skin needs. If you are very dry and extremely sensitive it maybe best to cleanse only at night. If you skip the AM cleanse you may just splash your face with luke warm/cool water, dry and continue applying your products. If your skin is oily or blemish prone, it may work best for you to cleanse in the morning. Play around with it and see what feels right for you. For me personally, I am a fan of an AM cleanse. It is part of my morning ritual and I love how it feels.

PM: This one is a non-negotiable. You need to cleanse the day off of your face. We encounter many impurities on our face throughout the day, and a proper cleanse is essential. Even more so, if you wear makeup or a face mask for much of the day, in these cases, I recommend a double cleanse. If you find that you are skipping the night time cleanse because you get too busy or are too tired, then start a routine where you do it earlier; BEFORE the the rush of your evening responsibilities or settling in on the couch.

And now the last step, SPF.

Sunscreen is your shield of protection for the day. It needs to be applied as the last step in your skincare routine before applying your makeup. The SPF in your makeup is not enough protection. You need a broad spectrum SPF. Your makeup may provide a little added extra protection but don't count on it as your shield of protection towards damaging rays. In a perfect world, we would all be reapplying our sunscreen throughout the day, up to 3x or more. Based on my experience I can say without a doubt that most people do not do this. So start with your daily morning application and plan to reapply at lunch time. You might not remember every day, but keep working towards improving on repeated reapplication. We can build upon good habits.

What to look for

How to Choose a Cleanser

Here are some things to look for when picking out a cleanser:

It should be free of ingredients such as parabens, fragrance, and sulfates. These ingredients compromise the health of the skin barrier.

It removes impurities like dirt, oil, and makeup without stripping the skin of healthy oils.
It doesn't contain exfoliating beads or harsh scrubs - these cause micro-tears!
It should be the right formula for your skin type (dry/sensitive, normal/combo, oily/problem-prone skin). This is where your skin statement (find it here!) comes in.

After cleansing, your skin should feel clean and smooth. Not dry and tight, greasy or irritated. It shouldn't tingle. It shouldn't burn. You should LOVE how your clean face feels.

Just like other skin care products, there are tons of different types of cleansers. I've chosen the most common types and written some notes about them, including what skin types they are best for.

Gel or Foaming (rinse off water-soluble): These cleansers are suitable for all skin types except very sensitive. These can also make a great first cleanse choice for all other skin types to remove makeup and prepare for a second cleanse when paired with an active cleanser that may not be used to remove eye makeup. (A cleanser does not need to foam to be effective, however, many people like the foaming action. This is one of your preferences.)
Hydrating, cream/lotion cleanser: This category includes creamy and milky cleansers, cleansing balms, and oil cleansers. Dry, sensitive skin types should opt for one of these options. These can also make a great first cleanse choice to remove makeup for all other skin types.
Active: Active cleansers contain an active ingredient such as hydroxy acids or enzymes. Determining what will be best for you will depend on your skin type and whether or not you have sensitive skin or experience breakouts. The active ingredient best for you is determined by your skin statement. To be safe, those with dry, sensitive skin or those who use prescription topicals should skip the active cleansers - unless you have consulted with your dermatologist or esthetician.

How to choose a sunscreen

Here are some things to take into consideration when picking out a sunscreen:

You want to choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB rays with at least an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of 30.
Sunscreen should be applied at least every 2 hours. Choose brush on formulations or a spray-on mist for reapplications over makeup. Yes - you can apply it over makeup! Don't forget about your neck, chest, ears, and back of the hands (especially if you drive - it doesn't matter if you are inside the car, the sun gets through the windshield!)
If you have sensitive, oily, or acne-prone skin should you want to choose a physical sunscreen containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Physical sunscreen is less likely to cause breakouts.
Reach for a chemical sunscreen for water-based activities or when participating in activities where you may sweat. Examples of chemical sunscreen ingredients are: homosalate and octisalate.
Choose sunscreen formulations with antioxidants for added protection.

A note on chemical sunscreen ingredients: Chemical sunscreen ingredients have received negative attention due to some studies showing human toxicity levels. However, homosalate and octisalate are documented to be safe. They are both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. However, if a chemical-free sunscreen is one of your preferences, choose a physical SPF instead.

Coming up next!

There you have it - the foundation of a GREAT skin care routine starts with cleansing and sunscreen. Now you know the basics behind why they are so important, when you should do them, and how you can approach choosing the right products for your personal skin type.

Next up in this series is moisturizer. I have some really great information to share with you! If you haven't already filled out your skin statement, click here to check out my blog post where I walk you through putting it together.

I really hope this deep dive into choosing skin care products is helpful. Drop me a comment below and let me know!